A Garden Guide for How to Grow Chrysanthemums

Grow chrysanthemums to add bold color and variety to your garden or landscape. These Chinese natives have been in cultivation for over 2000 years, according to the Purdue University horticulture department. During this lengthy period of cultivation, horticulturalists and plant breeders have developed numerous cultivated varieties with a vast array of flower colors, shapes and sizes. A fence is always important for your flower garden, so install a fence around your chrysanthemums flower garden

Chrysanthemums come in garden varieties and florist varieties. Florist varieties are not cold-hardy and are better suited for the greenhouse. Pick a garden-variety chrysanthemum for growing in the landscape.

Instructions

Things You'll Need

• Garden fork
• Shovel
• Compost, peat or manure
• Fertilizer
• Mulch
• Pruning shears

1. Plant chrysanthemums in a spot that gets at least six hours of sun a day. Spring is the best time to plant in areas that freeze in winter. In mild climates, plant chrysanthemums in spring or fall. You can plant in summer, but pick a cool day to minimize the possibility of transplant stress.

2. Clear the garden bed and amend the soil before planting chrysanthemums. Pull out weeds and clear weed roots, rocks and sticks. Spread a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost, seasoned manure or peat moss over the planting area. Using a garden fork, work the organic matter into the soil 8 to 12 inches deep.

3. Add fertilizer to the planting area before planting chrysanthemums. Use a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer as directed on the package label. Mix the fertilizer into the soil thoroughly with the organic amendment material.

Gardening Ideas for a Brick Wall

4. Plant chrysanthemums 18 to 24 inches apart. Dig the planting holes in the amended garden bed slightly wider as deep as the nursery pots. Slide the chrysanthemum out of the nursery pot and place it upright in the center of the hole.

5. Replace extra soil around the root ball and pat down the area. Continue planting until all the chrysanthemums are in the ground and then water planting bed. Soak each plant until it is damp at least to the bottom of the planting holes.

6. Water chrysanthemums when the top 1 inch of the soil is dry. Insert your index finger into the soil at the base of a plant to test the moisture levels in the soil. Soak each plant until it is evenly damp down at least 4 inches.

7. Fertilize once a month using the same 10-10-10 fertilizer. Pick a brand that is water soluble and apply as directed on the package label. Stop fertilizing in late summer. Chrysanthemums fertilized in the fall develop new growth late in the season reducing winter hardiness.

8. Mulch garden chrysanthemums in fall before the first hard freeze. Spread 4 to 6 inches of straw, pine bark or sawdust around each plant.

9. Cut back the old foliage in spring. Clip the dead stalks at the soil line but be careful not to damage any new green growth.

 

Tips & Warnings

• Chrysanthemums grow best in a soil pH of 6.5.
• For best flowering, plant chrysanthemums away from lights that stay on all night. According to the Iowa State University, chrysanthemums bloom best when they are not subjected to lights at night.

How to Lay Garden Decking on Uneven Concrete

How to Lay Garden Decking on Uneven Concrete

Homeowners with a concrete surface outside their home already have a sturdy foundation for garden decking, but concrete, unlike soil, cannot easily be adjusted to create a level surface. Constructing the deck's frame first and then using the frame as a guide is the simplest way to lay garden decking on uneven concrete. For both ground-level and raised garden decks, a frame allows you to measure the height for underlying support beams that will make the deck surface level.

Instructions

Things You'll Need

• Basic deck frame
• Bricks
• Wooden support beams
• Level
• Saw
• Deck posts
• Power hammer
• Rust-proof concrete Nails

1. Measure and construct the garden deck's frame. Gather bricks and temporary support beams of various heights.

2. Lay the deck frame over the uneven concrete surface. If you're applying the deck directly over a concrete surface, use the bricks and temporary support beams to lift any sagging portions of the frame. If you're constructing a raised deck, adjust the frame's height and evenness using temporary support beams. For both types of deck, continue adjusting the supports until the surface of the deck frame is level.

3. Measure the height of each temporary support structure when the deck frame is level. Cut the support posts with a saw so they match the measurements of the temporary supports. Nail these supports into the concrete using a power hammer to drive rust-proof concrete nails into the surface.

4. Nail the deck frame onto the support beams. If portions of the deck frame are resting directly above concrete, use the power hammer and concrete nails to secure the deck frame directly to the concrete.

5. Finish the levelled deck surface: attach stringers to the frame and fasten decking to the stringers. Use the level on the finished surface to double-check the effectiveness of your supports.

You can also call handy landscaping services

Read Also:
A Garden Guide for How to Grow Chrysanthemums
How to Make a Concrete Garden Fence

How to Make a Concrete Garden Fence

Most garden fences are made from wood or metal. Unfortunately, wood rots and becomes damaged by insects, and metal rusts. Making a garden fence out of concrete is inexpensive and allows you to create a more durable construction. You don’t have to be a concrete expert to create a unique garden fence for your yard. Using simple molding methods, you can create concrete fence posts in little time.

Instruction

 

Things You'll Need

• 2-inch boards
• 3/4-inch plywood
• Nail gun
• Nails
• Wood glue
• Playground sand
• Shovel
• Quick-set concrete
• Trowel
• 2-by-4-inch boards
• Concrete release agent
• Garden hose
• Posthole digger
• 2-by-4-by-51-inch boards

1. Create a box using 2-inch-thick pieces of wood for the sides and a piece of 3/4-inch-thick plywood for the bottom. Make the box 8 inches larger than you want the width, length and height of the fence post. The length of the post should be long enough to insert the end in the ground 8 inches. Lay out the four boards to create the box and secure together, using the nail gun and wood glue. Attach the plywood to the bottom of the box and secure with more nails. Place the box on a flat work surface.

2. Fill the box with playground sand to the top of the box. Use sand that's moist, not wet, and that clumps together when you squeeze it between your hands.

3. Draw the outline of the fence post in the top of the sand with your finger. Center the drawing in the middle of the sand, using the dimensions you want for the post. Dig out the sand inside the drawing with your hands or shovel. Press the sand along the walls and bottom, making them even and straight, to create a sand mold.

4. Prepare a batch of quick-set concrete according to the package directions. Mix the concrete so it pours but isn't runny. Create a texture similar to pudding.

5. Pour the concrete into the sand mold. Fill the mold until the concrete is even with the top edge of the sand. Smooth the surface with the trowel, if necessary. Let the concrete sit for two to three hours to set slightly.

6. Spray the end of a 2-by-4-inch board with concrete release agent. Insert the board into the concrete where you want the fence crossbar slat located. If you want just one slat, center it in the concrete 3 inches below the top. For two slats, space them evenly, leaving enough room at the bottom to insert the post in the ground 8 inches. Press the board so it goes through the concrete and into the sand. Leave the concrete to dry for three to four days.

7. Remove the board from the concrete. Remove the concrete post from the sand and spray the excess sand away with a garden hose.

8. Repeat steps 1 through 7 to create as many fence posts as you need to place one post every 4 feet around the garden’s perimeter.

9. Dig a hole in the ground with a posthole digger. Make the hole 4 inches larger than the post and 8 inches deep. Place the post in the ground, centering it in the hole. Fill the hole with dirt and pack it down. Repeat the process with additional holes and the remaining posts, spacing them every 48 inches around your garden.

10. Slide a 2-by-4-by-51-inch board through each of the slat holes you created in step 6.

Tips & Warnings

To make concrete slats for the fence, use the same molding method. Create one slat for each hole in the fence post.

• Gardening Ideas for a Brick Wall
•  A Garden Guide for How to Grow Chrysanthemums
• How to Lay Garden Decking on Uneven Concrete

Gardening Ideas for a Brick Wall

Brick walls add warmth, texture and natural earth tones to your landscape. When combined with plantings, brick walls serve as a backdrop to highlight your plant’s colors. Before choosing species to plant near brick, determine your site’s soil type, water levels and especially sun exposure. Brick tends to absorb warmth from the sun during the day and release heat at night, creating microclimates that may be slightly warmer than neighboring areas. Choose plants that can tolerate warm temperatures and low moisture.

Trees

When planting trees near a brick wall, consider the species’ mature size and leave plenty of room for roots and canopies to spread. The Chinese fringetree (Chionanthus retusus) tolerates heat, sun, partial shade and a variety of soils. This easy-to-grow deciduous tree blooms with aromatic white flowers, followed by blue berries. It grows to 25 feet tall with a similar spread. Japanese apricots (Prunus mume) also grow well in sunny to partially shaded sites and tolerate heat. These 20-foot-tall trees are prized for their scented white, red and pink blossoms.

Shrubs

Slow-growing shrubs require less maintenance and pruning than fast-growing varieties. Choose heat-tolerant varieties such as the Japanese plum yew (Cephalotaxus harringtonia), a slow-growing, shade-tolerant shrub with glossy, dark leaves. This evergreen tolerates dry or sandy sites and grows to 10 feet tall with a similar spread. Another evergreen, the Boulevard falsecypress (Chamaecyparis pisifera) grows to 10 feet tall with a narrow, 3-foot spread. This dense shrub has gray-blue foliage, tolerates heat and prefers sites with moist, well-draining soil.

Vines

Nothing complements brick walls like vines. Slow-growing, small-foliaged species that cling using aerial rootlets or adhesive pads grow well on brick-and-mortar surfaces, according to the University of Missouri Extension. Species include the Virginia creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia), a deciduous vine that grows up to 50 feet long. This North American native has purple new foliage that ages to green and then turns red in fall. It grows well in sun and shade and tolerates drought. English ivy (Hedera helix) also grows well on brick. It has glossy, dark, evergreen foliage and grows best in shady locations with enriched soil.

Perennials

Perennials add a splash of color to brick-wall landscaping year after year. Choose species that bloom at different times of year for season-long color. Spring bloomers include sea pink (Armeria maritima), a tiny, 8-inch-tall perennial that flowers with pink blooms from spring through summer. They grow well in sunny, dry sites. For long-lasting summer color, plant hardy mums (Chrysanthemum morifolium).

They grow to 3 feet tall and bloom in red, yellow, white and orange blossoms from summer through early fall. They thrive in sunny sites with excellent drainage. Fall-bloomers include Stokes’ aster (Stokesia laevis). This 2-foot-tall perennial produces bright blue flowers that last into the autumn. False sunflower (Heliopsis) also blooms into the fall. These tall perennials reach heights to 4 feet and produce showy yellow flowers. They grow well in sunny, regularly irrigated sites.

Related Post:

• A Garden Guide for How to Grow Chrysanthemums
• How to Lay Garden Decking on Uneven Concrete
• How to Make a Concrete Garden Fence